A Trip to Kaolack

This journey to Kaolack, a city in western Senegal paints a pleasant picture and an enclave to behold

First published in the Ramadan/Shawwal 1434 (2013) print edition of PEACE Magazine.

By Abdulfattah Abdussalam

I boarded three different means of transportation to reach Madina Kaolack, an experience as unique as it was memorable. I flew commercially from Lagos to Banjul, sailed by commercial boat from Banjul to Barra, and then continued by road transport to Kaolack.

Arriving in Kaolack heightened my curiosity. I took a cab to Madina and immediately explained my mission to the driver and other passengers. Instantly, they took special interest and drove me straight to the residence of my intended host, the immediate family of the Khalifat-ul-Aam, Shaykh Ahmad Tijani Ibrahim Niass, one of the sons of the late Shaykh.

All knowledge belongs to Allah, but the level of organization in accommodation, logistics, feeding programmes, and general this is hospitality offered by the Niass family was far beyond human expectation. Guests to the city were fed generously, accommodated comfortably, and treated with exceptional warmth. Indeed, the only challenge a visitor might face is getting to Kaolack; once there, everything else is promptly taken care of by the households of Ibrahim Niass and Cisse. Over one million people were reportedly fed, housed, and catered for free.

Contrary to some perceptions of the Tijaniyyah Tariqah, activities in the city reflected pure worship. Generally speaking, the Tariqah as entrenched by the Niass family aligns fully with obedience to Allah’s commandments and avoidance of His prohibitions, both outwardly and inwardly seeking what pleases Allah rather than personal desires.

Remarkably, the mosque stands as a masterful edifice, large, well-supported and adorned with beautifully decorated pillars. It resembles a miniature version of the Prophet’s Mosque in Madinah, Saudi Arabia. Its interior offers worshippers a serene and uplifting atmosphere, featuring two functional minbars, large entrances, a beautiful dome, imposing minarets, and a generally conducive environment for devotion.

The toilet and ablution facilities are located at a reasonable distance from the main mosque. Nearby is a modest structure housing the remains of the great Shaykh Ibrahim Niass, Imam Cisse, and other family members. This further elevates the mosque’s significance and speaks volumes about the legacy of its founder. The humility of the Niass family members is truly admirable.

Only Allah knows where some Nigerian adherents of the Tijaniyyah Order acquired the habit of excessive praise and chanting of the name Niass. Throughout my stay in Madina Kaolack, the names Niass or Cisse were never shouted or exalted abnormally. Entry into and exit from the mosque were calm and dignified; at most, it was the askir who announced the Imam’s presence.

Several accounts were shared about the spiritual life of Shaykh Ibrahim Niass. One such narration recalled a fire outbreak in the mosque. When informed, the Shaykh reportedly did not panic. Instead, he recited Qur’anic verses into the mouth of one of his disciples, Abdul Qadr, and instructed him to approach the fire and chant Allahu Akbar three times. It was said that when he did so, the fire was extinguished. Many similar stories were told about the Shaykh’s spiritual prowess.

My journey, as earlier stated, was undertaken to learn more about this great Muslim scholar and to verify accounts of his life, particularly his love for and relationship with Nigerians. I found these stories to be true, further affirming that Allah manifests His greatness in ways He wills. Shaykh Ibrahim Niass was indeed a manifestation of Allah’s greatness in his time.

Notably displayed on the wall of his modest sitting room in Madina Kaolack is a framed greeting message sent to him by Nigeria’s former Head of State, General Yakubu Gowon. The message symbolises the Shaykh’s spiritual influence and his relationship with Nigeria’s leadership at the time.

We were taken around his birthplace, the towns of his father and mother, and the places where he lived during his childhood and adult life. Visiting his burial site was a sobering reminder of human mortality and a reaffirmation that all power belongs to Allah alone.

May Allah continue to bless the soul of Shaykh Ibrahim Niass and grant us all more time and strength to worship Him with sincerity.

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